In Love With Lisbon

Tag: Lisbon Landmarks

  • Commercial Square

    Azulejo 14Before the great earthquake of 1755, Commercial Square was the seat of power for the Portuguese royalty for around 200 years. In those times it was named Terreiro do Paço (The Palace’s Square) and was the home of the Portuguese Royal family of King Manuel 1st. After the earthquake destroyed the palace, the Marquis de Pombal saw to the uniform re-creation of Lisbon and Terreiro do Paço became Praça do Comércio – Commerical Square. Many of the roads in Baixa (downtown Lisbon) were given names such as Rua dos Sapateiros (Cobbler Street) to create an orderly layout of both streets and people. Certain professions were given their own roads. Commercial Square did exactly what it said on the tin. It became the hub of commerce in Lisbon, comprising governmental buildings dealing with import and export and more.

    Commercial Square has been called the ‘reception room of Lisbon’. Built on the edge of the Tagus river, the square became a warm sunlit welcome to visitors. With the port lying at one end and grand buildings surrounding it, Praça Comércio provided a regal and proud gateway into Lisbon.

    As you cross from Rua Augusta into Commercial Square you walk under the Arco do Triunfo or Triumph Arch. This colossal piece of architecture was only completed in 1875 and designed by Veríssimo da Costa. Take a moment to look up and you will see representations of Portugal’s glorious history carved upon it. The Marquis has a place here, as does the famous pioneer of the seas; Vasco de Gama. On either side of the Arch are figures representing the two main rivers of Portugal, namely the Douro and the Tagus and crowning the Archway is a statue to Glory, Ingenuity and Valour, three attributes of the spirit of Lisbon. The Archway above all captures the strength of Lisbon in it how it rose from the rubble of the earthquake to be rebuilt.

    Praça ComércioPraça do Comércio by zoonabar on Flickr

    Within the Arch there is also a clock. Once upon a time the King of Portugal commisioned a beautiful clock tower that was part of the palace. When it was destroyed in the earthquake, it was to be another century before the hands of time once again were visible on the square. A hundred years ago the clock was replaced but fell into disuse through neglect. Last year work began on it once more to restore time to Lisbon. When I visited, a huge banner covered the restoration work.

    At the centre of the square you cannot fail to miss the gigantic bronze statue of Dom José upon his horse. The horse tramples snakes beneath its feet. Whilst on my Lisbon Walk, the tour guide mentioned that the snakes were meant to represent the Jews who were expelled from Lisbon in the 1400’s. On either side of the base of the statue are two further figures: Triumph leading a horse and Fame leading an elephant – presumably a visual representation of Portugal’s success in the spice trade with India.

    Praça do Comércio - lamp
    © ILWL

    Praça do Comércio is one of my favourite places to just sit and watch the world go by. The light here is exquisite and I love the feeling of being ‘at the centre’. Tourist buses and trams meet and leave from here, walkers congregate here and people populate the cafés that are dotted around the square. The most famous of these is Café Martihno da Arcada on the top left hand corner (as you come through the Arch).

    History is all around you in this place. Here was once where Royalty reigned, where destruction followed where new dreams began. Here is where the last King of Portugal was assasinated. Here is where every year a giant Christmas tree stands and where many gather to welcome in the New Year.

    Whilst you are visiting Lisbon, you are very likely to pass through Commercial Square at some point or other, if only because so many trams and buses stop here. I would recommend taking a half hour out of your day just to wander then sit and wonder at one the the most beautiful squares in Europe.

    For further details on the renovation of the clock in the arch see here

     


  • Rossio Square

    Azulejo 11Rossio Square (Praça Rossio) lies at the heart of Lisbon and is often one of the first places tourists arrive at when visiting the city. The site has been an important place in Lisbon’s history for many centuries and carries many stories within its space. With its distinctive traditional Portuguese paving (calçada Portuguesa), fountains and statues, Rossio really does make you feel like you have arrived in Lisbon.

    I recommend taking a wander to Rossio in the early morning – as early as possible. Being seated at the heart of the city, during the day it is full of hustle and bustle as locals cross during their lunch hour and tourists stop to take photos or sit outside one of the numerous cafes. Walking across the square in the early morning, you can fully appreciate the giant mosaic patterns that sweep across the ground and you have time to take in all the different buildings and features that line the square.

    Praça Rossio
    © ILWL

    Perhaps the most obvious feature is the huge 27 metre column topped by the statue dedicated to Dom Pedro IV. Dom Pedro was King of Portugal for a short time but is perhaps more famous for leaving Portugal to rule in Brazil. The column was erected in 1874. Apparently the official name of the square is Praça de D. Pedro IV, however it seems that this is rarely, if ever used. At the seat of the monument are four marble representations of Justice, Wisdom, Strength, and Moderation – qualities that Dom Pedro admired.

    There are two beautiful baroque fountains situated at each end of the square and it is worth taking some time to really absorb the details that have been lavished upon the making of the bronze statues. In the grand surroundings of Rossio square, the fountains bring life and movement to an otherwise imposing area.

    In the past, the All Saints Royal Hospital occupied the whole of the Eastern side of the square but this was razed to the ground in the 1755 earthquake. When the Marquês de Pombal famously instructed the rebuilding of Lisbon, The São Domingo Church found itself seperated from Rossio Square where once it had been a part of it. As well as being seriously damaged by the earthquake, São Domingo church was also almost burnt to the ground by a fire. Walking into the Church you can see a distinct difference in the architecture of the upper part of the building. I am never at my most comfortable in churches I have to say and whilst lovely to look at, this particular church seemed to exude a restless feeling; as though the wrongs that had happened there still lived in the walls.

    Praça Rossio Teatro
    © ILWL

    The glorious National Theatre (Teatro Nacional D. Maria II) sits at the top end of the square and is a centrepoint for culture. It is by far my favourite building on Rossio. Constructed within the building are the Muses, Apollo and busts of Portuguese poets. The classical design uses 6 columns from the Church of St. Francis which was destroyed in the earthquake and is topped with a statue of the famous Portuguese playwright Gil Vincent. Aside from the theatre housing wonderful plays and other events, personally I am drawn to it because of the original reason it was built. The building that preceded the theatre was the Palace of Estaus – the seat of the Portuguese Inquisition. Ironically destroyed by fire in 1836, it was decided that something should replace the horror that had once been there and heal the wounds of the past. What better than a theatre to delight the people and reveal the wonders of creativity.

    There are other smaller wonders to feast your senses on in Rossio square. There is a the scent of chestnuts roasting from the street seller and the call of the lottery man or woman. There is the gentle archway of Bandeira (Arco da Bandeira) that leads into the quieter Sapateiros Street and the art deco of Café Nicola. Everywhere you look in this square is history and history in the making. Lovers and friends meet here. Journeys begin and end here.