In Love With Lisbon

Category: Things to See and Do in Lisbon

  • Principe Real

    azulejo47

    Príncipe Real is a leafy neighbourhood not far from Bairro Alto. Here you’ll find grand houses with beautiful tilework, quaint antique shops, bookstores, tiny coffee houses and gay friendly bars. There’s a certain homely bohemian feel and it immediately makes me think that this is an area I could live in.

    principeshopwindow

    From Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, follow the road round to the right and up the short hill. The climb will take into the Príncipe Real district and you’ll see trees ahead of you. Head towards the green and you’ll find a tranquil park which is over-awed by a huge ancient ceder tree whose branches spread out to almost impossible dimensions. The tree is so old that it is now held up by ornate iron trellis. I wandered beneath it, feeling the sheer weight of it upon me and wondered how many lovers this tree has witnessed. It’s perhaps what used to be called a Trysting Tree. The presence of the tree is both deeply comforting and ominous – almost as if it’s spirit fiercly protects this little sanctuary in Lisbon.

    ceder

    It was around 10am when I arrived in the park so there were no lovers to be seen but the park was a natural focal point. People were walking their dogs, elderly folk sat reading the morning paper and prepared for a game of cards, people cut through on their way to work and a few earlybird tourists stopped to read their maps. There are permanent picnic tables and plenty of shady seats as well as a lovely little cafe to buy your morning bica (espresso).

    greentilehouse

    Wandering through the park, I came across an entrance leading underground to the Museu da Água (Museum of Water). Unfortunately I didn’t have time to go in but I have discovered from the main website that this is one part of the Water Museum which is spread over several sites. This site (the Patriarchal Reservoir) was once one of the main reservoirs in Lisbon holding tons of water to keep downtown alive. Shut down in the 1940’s the site has become an place of historic and architectural interest.

    Príncipe Real is a neighbourhood with a lot to offer. I’m told that it’s well worth stopping to buy bread here too from a shop called Doce Real.

    Yes, I could definately live in Principe Real.

    Museu da Agua/Water Museum website

  • Ferry Across the Tejo

    azulejos45

    The ferry was ancient and rusted. Momentarily I wondered whether I should dare my weight upon it. It creaked at the waterside, rocking knowingly to the rhythm of the river.

    The journey to to Cacilhas was €2.55 for a round trip (ida e volta) which is a serious bargain compared to some of the boat trips being hawked at the port. Whilst some may like the glitz of the more expensive cruises around the bay, I wanted to experience the crossing as a Lisboeta.

    I caught the ferry at Cais de Sodré. To get there turn right at the end of Praço do Comércio (facing the river) onto Av. da Ribeira das Naus. Follow the road up until you reach Praça do Duque da Terceira; it’s just just a few minutes walk. Cais de Sodré is there on your left. Once you arrive, walk right through past the train terminal to the end where you can buy your ticket to Cacilhas. There’s a ferry every 10 minutes or so and the journey itself lasts 10 – 15 minutes on the water.

    Ferries are usually quite busy as not only do you have tourists making their way across to the Christi Rei statue, you also have local people making their way to and from work. This is one of the main reasons I enjoy the ferry more than the cruises as it’s another way of taking part in local life.

    lisbon_2008 07 28_0969
    Creative Commons License photo credit: campagnoli

    I found space to sit however; nestled against the window surrounded by two elderly Portuguese ladies, a mother and child and a German couple. As the ferry made ready to leave I found myself wondering whether this had been a good idea seeing as I have the worst sea-sickness ever. I have been known to go green on a canal boat! The engines revved and the water rolled beneath us and as the banks of Lisbon’s north shore receeded I managed to convince my stomach that there was no cause for alarm. Delighted, I found myself enjoying the trip.

    Whilst the windows are a little grimy, the further the ferry goes, the better the view of Lisbon’s shores. As you reach the middle of the river, your eye can stretch from Belém Tower to Alfama and the Sé. You also get a fabulous view of the Ponte 25th de Abril too. Whilst the famous bridge is another way of crossing the river, there is something wonderfully romantic about a boat – the slight smell of corrosion of  water upon metal, the oil of the engines, the rhythm of the waves…

    I had no plans when I reached the other side of the river. I just wanted to take in the view and wander. Initially as we disembarked, a mass of woman selling fruit, vegetables and imitation watches beseeched us to buy. I side-tracked the throng and turned left to walk along the waterside. Hardly a few feet later, I found a seat beside the river where I could simply sit and gaze at Lisbon from a different vantage point. After pausing there for a while, I changed my mind about walking further into Cacilhas favouring a long walk beside the water instead.

    cacilhasview

    Walking back on myself, I made my way along the river side, past jetties with old fishing boats moored and run-down warehouses. I stood for some time simply drinking in the panorama, tasting the slight salt on my lips and the heat of the sun reflecting of the water. I had one of my moments that I sometimes have in Lisbon, an overwhelming feeling that I wanted to cry with the love I felt for the beautiful city that lay on the opposite shore.

    Many come to Cacilhas to visit the giant Christi Rei monument that echoes the one found on the mountain overlooking Rio de Janerio in Brazil. Perhaps it is the sense of pilgrimage that hangs over this place that moves me too. If Christi Rei is the point of your trip by the way, there is a bus outside the ferry port at Cacilhas that will take you all the way to the monument.
     
    Time was short however as I had made my decision to ride the ferry a couple of hours before meeting someone for coffee. Rather than explore further, I caught the ferry back, letting it rock me back into the arms of Lisbon. The vast monument and Cacilhas are mysteries for me to explore another day…