In Love With Lisbon

Category: Things to See and Do in Lisbon

  • The Fado Museum

    Azulejo 30The Fado Museum (Museu do Fado) is a must do trip for those who love Fado music as well as those with an interest in Portuguese culture and history.

    Situated on Largo do Chafariz de Dentro, the museum is right opposite the entrance to Alfama. The easiest way to find it is to simply walk towards the sea on Praça de Comércio and turn left up the main road (Avenida Infant Dom Henrique). It’s about a 5 – 10 minute walk along the water front and is situated on the right. Alternatively you can take bus number 28.

    Fado Museum
    © ILWL

    The museum opened in 1998 and is located within a spacious well-designed building that still smells new. It costs €5 (2012 price) to enter and you are not allowed to take photographs. Both times I have visited, the museum has been quiet although as with most tourist attractions, it is busier at the weekends.

    Despite being quite a small museum, they have a packed collection that includes interactive features. The permanent collection is a wonderful journey through the history of Fado – the music, the singers, the musicians and instrument (namely the Portuguese guitar).

    There are hundreds of photos of famous singers as well as posters of old advertisements. Every wall is crammed with information on how fado developed as a musical genre. You can listen to the different types of fado as well as different artists. My favourite part of the museum is the  model Portuguese guitar workshop. A wax work figure stands over his tools as a film runs behind him showing how a Portuguese guitar is made. As a musician I have always been in awe of master instrument makers. Along the wall is a large display of different makes and models of guitar. My fingers were itching to play!

    The last room is a wonderful installation that recreates a fado bar. Last time I visited I was the only person in there so it was easy to feel like I had been transported back in time. The room is dark and atmospheric. Glass cases of original costumes worn by great Fadistas like Lidia Ribeiro, Maria da Fé and Amalia line the back walls. All around the room are photographs of Fado in action and of course there is fado playing as you stand and absorb the atmosphere.

    The museum has space also for temporary exhibitions. Past exhibitions are listed on their website if you would like to know more. There is a cafe which wasn’t open when I was there but according to their website it is open at the weekend and Fado is played live.

    You’ll find the shop very expensive but it does have an excellent selection of fado music as well as some lovely books on art and culture in Portugal as well as fado. My only disappointment was that they did not have any posters. I love the old Fado advertisments – particularly those by Stuart Carvalhais and would love to have some prints of his work.

    The Fado Museum is the perfect place to pass an hour in the late afternoon. From there you can cross the street and be right in the heart of old Alfama ready to spend the evening in the arms of fado.

    Museu do Fado (in Portuguese and English)
    Opening Times: Tuesday – Sunday 10 – 6pm (last admission 5.30pm).

  • Discover Lisbon with Lisbon Walker

    Azulejo 26I stumbled across the Lisbon Walker website by chance one afternoon not long before my trip. I suddenly realised it would be an excellent way of gathering more information about Lisbon and also to meet some people whilst I was there. Whilst I can be quite happy in my own company, it is of course always nice to meet others and I figured this would be a great way to do it.

    Lisbon Walker offers a variety of walks every day of the year apart from Christmas and New Years day. There is no need to book, just simply turn up at the appointed time at the meeting place. As I have spent a lot of time studying magical and mystical subjects the “Legends and Mysteries” walk immediately caught my eye. Unfortunately for me though, this walk is on Thursdays and I would arrive too late to meet. My next choice was The “Lisbon Revelation” walk which looked very interesting too. It also seemed to be the most popular walk as they run this four times a week. My decision made, on Friday morning I made my way down to the meeting point.

    The meeting point is on Praça Comércio. Just turn left as soon as you arrive at the square (from the archway) and make your way to the corner where Café Martihno da Arcada is. Cross over the side street and wait on that corner. It’s right opposite where the tour trams are. Of course if you are early enough, you can fortify yourself with a coffee and pastel de nata at Café Martinho – highly recommended.

    The Lisbon Walker representative arrives about ten minutes before the appointed time and can be spotted by their orange top and Lisbon Walker leaflets and badge. I was met by the friendly José who sorted out the small group of people who had gathered on the corner into their respective walks. Our party consisted of a French couple, a Canadian couple and an American as well as myself. It was nice that the group was small as it left us plenty of space to be able to ask questions.

    Once everyone was sorted out and payment taken (the cost is €15 – current price 2012) our guide Rita Prata arrived to begin our journey.

    The full iternary for the walk is on the Lisbon Walker website so I’ll give you a brief overview. We walked through the various main districts of Lisbon (Baixa, Bairro Alto, Chiado, Rossio, Alfama) and visited viewpoints (Miradouros) such as Graça and Portas do Sol. Portas do Sol was a place I had visited before and is one of my favourite haunts. We were taken to the Carmo Ruins, a variety of churches and important buildings such as Rossio train station and the Theatre on Figueria Square and were given free rides on the Number 28 Tram and the Santa Justa Elevator.

    Throughout the walk, Rita talked us through the history of the place and pointed out important features or showed us images of how the area once used to look. We were given snippets of stories and tales of famous figures. The walk was absolutely fascinating. Rita was a fantastic guide: happy to answer questions, completely at ease with strangers and making her talk both informative and fun. At the end of the walk, we were given a sheet on recommended places to visit and time to ask further questions.

    Even after 3 hours of walking, wandering, listening and looking I was sad for it to end! This walk gives such a wonderful overview of the city and I felt truly immersed in it’s history and culture.

    I would absolutely recommend anyone visiting Lisbon to meet up with Lisbon Walkers. There are walks to suit everyone and special interest walks too. Private walks can be specially arranged. Rita recommended the “Lisbon of Spices and Slaves” walk as a personal favourite and from reading the information about it, I think it would be a fascinating day out. I would quite happily attend each walk they run as I learned so much. I was furiously taking notes all the way through as there was so much that I want to share here at In Love With Lisbon. I have already decided that I shall be joining them again on my next visit.

    Lisbon Walkers is run by people who are obviously dedicated and knowledgeable guides who have a great love of their city as well as a natural flair for communication. Through their guidance they invoke a passion for the beautiful city. Please take a look at their website if you are planning a holiday. My Lisbon Walk was the highlight of my trip.

    Notes
    Lisbon Walker Website (in English or Portuguese)
    Cost €15
    Talks are in English (Portuguese guided walks are on Sundays)
    Wear good walking shoes!