Lisbon Oceanarium

As a child I learned to swim in the sea, sputtering salt water, kicking my legs out as my father hovered nearby. I remember the fear and the exhilaration. I always wanted to go into the water. Then, maybe a year after I learned to swim, my Mother was surrounded by jellyfish whilst paddling. She lost her wedding ring that day as she fought her way past the stinging swarm. I still went into the water but somewhere along the line I learned that the ocean is full of the unknown. The creatures that belong there are like nothing else. It’s a long time since I’ve done more than got my feet wet in the sea but I remain fascinated by the creatures that live there – the otherworldly faces, vibrant colours. Looking into that world reminds me that there is so much more to this planet than we normally see.

So Lisbon Oceanarium (Oceanário de Lisboa) was on my agenda during my last trip to the city.

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What is Lisbon Oceanarium?
The Oceanarium was build as part of the World Expo in 1998 to celebrate “The Oceans, a Heritage for the Future’. Lisbon has a very special cultural relationship with the sea, having built it’s reputation upon the Discoveries. The Oceanarium is dedicated to educating the public about the ocean and its conservation. Essentially it is a giant aquarium filled with an extraordinary amount of sea life. One of its most famous occupants is a sunfish. I can honestly say I have never seen anything like it! Sunfish are notoriously difficult to keep so its good health shows how well the aquarium is run and the creatures within it looked after.

The building is created around a thousand square meter tank that runs up the centre of the main floors of the Oceanarium. Around this are four more aquariums with different habitats (North Atlantic, Antarctic, Temperate Pacific and Tropical Ocean). These Four zones are actually separated from the main aquarium by acrylic but are made to appear as though everything is swimming together to show the interrelated life in the ocean and it’s connection to all life. Around the building are smaller Aquariums housing for example starfish and amphibians. Make sure you check out the Temperate Pacific zone as this is home to two Alaskan Sea Otters called Eusébio and Amália. They are incredibly cute.

Really there is so much to see here that you could quite easily spend a whole day investigating all the different areas. Photography is allowed but you must not under any circumstances use a flash as this can disturb the animals. There are plenty of seats so you can rest your feet and take in the view. The building is accessible to wheelchair users. In many ways, the Oceanarium is a very restful place. Sounds of the ocean play as you move through the darkened observation rooms. The graceful movements of bizarre creatures, the startling colours of vibrant undersea life evoke such a sense of peace. I found it inspiring. Seeing creatures that live under the sea reminds me of how beautiful and extraordinary our planet is and how much we need to take care of it.
As an enterprise dedicated to education, the Oceanarium runs different events and experiences. Guided tours are available including a backstage tour so you can get to see behind the scenes. An audio guide can be picked up upon entering for 2.50 Euros. A variety of events happen throughout the year. You can find these listed on the main website.

How to get to Lisbon Oceanarium
If you don’t want to take the metro, the following bus numbers will take you to Oriente: -  5, 10, 19, 21, 28, 50, 68, 81, 82, 85.

Lisbon Oceanarium is situated in Parque das Nações, the popular ultra modern area which housed the World Expo in 1998. Parque das Nações is served by the Oriente metro station situated at the end of the red line (linha vermelho). To get on the red line, catch the metro on the blue line (linha azul) at Baixa-Chiado or Restauadores and change at São Sebastian.

When you come out of the metro station (make sure you look up to see the fabulous ‘crown’ of the Oriente station!), cross the road and walk straight through the Vasco de Gama shopping centre. It will bring you out to an extraordinary spiky sculpture and onto the promenade area. Turn right onto Alameda Dos Oceanos. Walk all the way down the promenade until you reach the roundabout at the end. To your left you’ll see a blue wall with a fountain. The pedestrianised walkway beside this is Passeio de Ulisses. Walk down here and this will take you straight to the Oceanarium on the river front. Just head for the cable cars which are right outside the Oceanarium. Whilst you are there, I definitely recommend a trip on the cable car. You’ll have a terrific view of the elegant, futuristic architecture of Parque das Nações and the fabulous Vasco de Gama Bridge.

How Much Does it Cost?
The current entry ticket is 12 Euros. Three’s and under go free. Four – Twelve year old are 6 Euros and over Sixty Six is 6.50 Euros. There are also family tickets available for 29 Euros (2 adults, 2 children under 12). Tickets are purchased at the main entrance.

When is it Open?
Daily
During the summer months from 10am – 8pm (last entry 7pm)
During the Winter months from 10am – 7pm (last entry 6pm)
The Oceanarium is also one of the few places open on Christmas Day and New Years day.

For further details and lots more information visit the official website (available in both Portuguese and English)

http://www.oceanario.pt/
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The Einstein Enigma by José Rodrigues Dos Santos

Some time ago I was sent The Einstein Enigma to review. Various circumstances conspired against me so that the book sat for too long on my desk. Time seemed to be against me. Finally however the universe brought me full circle, cleared the way and I found myself embarking on one of the most fascinating stories I have ever read.

The Einstein Enigma was written by José Rodrigues Dos Santos, a familiar face on Portuguese television. Born in Mozambique, the son of a doctor, José was brought face to face with the horrors of war from an early age. This was to shape his life as he became a prize winning  journalist specialising in war reporting. He is also a journalism professor at Lisbon University.

Having covered real life stories in places such as Iraq, Israel, East Timor and Lebonon, José has a rich tapestry of experience to draw upon. Apparently he never intended to become a novelist. His first novel was born from a friend asking him to write a short story for a literary magazine. Two hundred pages into his ‘short story’, José realised he had the writing bug and become a best selling novelist. To date he has published 9 novels, selling over a million copies in Portugal alone and has been translated into 17 languages. He remains the main anchorman at RTP presenting the evening news and reporting on wars across the world.

Reading the back cover of the book, I realised that my interest was already piqued not only because the author hails from Portugal but also because the subject matter in itself was fascinating. I had no idea however, how rich and complex the book would become or the profound material it contains.

Essentially the story centres around a university professor who specialises in cryptography named Thomas Noronha. The hero finds himself drawn into international espionage, at the mercy of the CIA and the Iranian government who are battling to decode a message written by Einstein that they believe contains the instructions to make an atomic weapon. In way over his head, Thomas falls for a beautiful woman from Iran who may or may not be all she seems and finds himself trapped in a nightmare of conspiracy and subterfuge.

The novel starts out as a thriller, akin in pace to the novels of Dan Brown but don’t be fooled into thinking it’s an easy read. Interspersed between the action are long passages which begin to explain the intricate workings of quantum physics and mathematics. Thomas is searching for ‘The God Formula’ – the enigmatic mystery that proves the existance of God. Using real,cutting edge scientific research, José begins to weave a fascinating story that both educates and fascinates.

Whilst the premise is fictional, the story is based heavily in fact as experiment upon experiment is referenced along with teachings ranging across philosophy, history and religion. The greatest minds are drawn into the arguments and the reader is gently asked to stretch their mind as they read. The riddle that Thomas has to unravel becomes the readers riddle as slowly we begin to explore what we really believe when it comes to the big questions. José is not afraid to ask the biggest of them all:-

Why are we here?
What came before the universe?
How will the universe end?
Is the universe eternal?
Does God exist?
What exactly is God?
How can we prove God exists?

This isn’t a religious novel by any means, simply a profound knitting together of religious and scientific thought that makes you question everything you believed and then some whether you are an aetheist or a believer.

In some ways it could be argued that the characters are a little superfluous to the novel, merely there to carry the reader on a journey. Yet whilst the characters are not necessarily fleshed out, there are beautiful moments of humanity, moments that tug at the heartstrings and that we can all relate to. There is a love story, there is the cruel passage of time that destroys those we love.

Away from formulas and equations, the novel serves also as a travelogue taking us to places that many of us perhaps have never visited and never will. We travel through enigmatic Coimbra the academic capital of Portugal, through Iran and Tibet. With each journey we are treated to delicious descriptions of the place concerned with vivid, evocative language that cannot help but stir the travellers toes. Historical facts abound such as the Portuguese were the first western people to reach inner Tibet.

This isn’t a book to read at night. I quickly learned that it needed to be read with pen and paper at the ready to write notes. It’s a novel to be read in daylight because otherwise you will find your mind ticking over the profound facts found within it’s pages in the midde of the night. Thankfully, José provides us with a reading list at the end upon which he based his novel. All of these books are now in my wish list.

I’m not a scientist by any stretch of the imagination. I was good at maths but prefered English, I love astronomy but I became an astrologer. Semantics call me more than reductionism (those terms are explained in the novel!). Yet I am called to ask the big questions. As a child I tried to write a story about a man who had reached the edge of the universe and I remember the frustration at not being able to imagine what he found there. In many ways I’m still travelling this eternal line, peeking into the void beyond. This novel for me is a speck of light on the horizon, dawning realisation that everything truly is connected.

I will leave you with a rather beautiful passage in the book

Everything was serene, translucent, lofty. Truly pure. Never had he felt so perfectly between heaven and earth, floating above the fog, his spirit free, standing out among the mass of humanity to touch God, eternity compressed into a second, the ephemeral stretching into the infinite, Alpha, the start and Omega, the end, light and darkness, the universe in a puff, the impression that life is mystical, that a mystery lies hidden behind the visible, an enigma engraved in old writing, an inscrutable code, an ancient sound that can be sensed but not heard.
The secret of the world “

The author’s official website is found here

Drawing in Space – Wire Sculptures by David Oliveira

If you are in Lisbon at the moment then why not check out an intriguing art exhibition.

Presented by Gallery at Krypton, ‘Drawing in Space’ features the wire sculpture work of David Oliveira.

David Oliveira was born in Lisbon in 1980. He gained a degree in sculpture from the Faculty of Fine Arts at Lisbon University and since 2005 has been exhibiting his work both individually and collectively with other artists.

Oliveira’s work has featured in Arte Lisboa – a national art fair which brings together works from contemporary and modern art galleries.

Exploring the idea of line and space, Oliveira plays on optical illusion. Two dimensions become three dimensional works of wire art. His pieces evoke a sense of character just like a sketch. Fashioned only in line, the viewer fills in the space to see the character beyond.

I find his work captivating.

The exhibition ‘Desenhar no Espaço’ (Drawing in Space) runs from the 12th January until the 11th march, Gallery at Krypton on Rua da Junqueira 354, 1300-340 LISBOA. It is open Monday to Friday from 9.30am until 1pm and 2.30pm until 6pm. Entry is free.

Check out the artist’s blog to see some examples of his work or the video below.

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