Category Archives: Things to See and Do in Lisbon

Ferry Across the Tejo

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The ferry was ancient and rusted. Momentarily I wondered whether I should dare my weight upon it. It creaked at the waterside, rocking knowingly to the rhythm of the river.

The journey to to Cacilhas was €2.55 for a round trip (ida e volta) which is a serious bargain compared to some of the boat trips being hawked at the port. Whilst some may like the glitz of the more expensive cruises around the bay, I wanted to experience the crossing as a Lisboeta.

I caught the ferry at Cais de Sodré. To get there turn right at the end of Praço do Comércio (facing the river) onto Av. da Ribeira das Naus. Follow the road up until you reach Praça do Duque da Terceira; it’s just just a few minutes walk. Cais de Sodré is there on your left. Once you arrive, walk right through past the train terminal to the end where you can buy your ticket to Cacilhas. There’s a ferry every 10 minutes or so and the journey itself lasts 10 – 15 minutes on the water.

Ferries are usually quite busy as not only do you have tourists making their way across to the Christi Rei statue, you also have local people making their way to and from work. This is one of the main reasons I enjoy the ferry more than the cruises as it’s another way of taking part in local life.

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Creative Commons License photo credit: campagnoli

I found space to sit however; nestled against the window surrounded by two elderly Portuguese ladies, a mother and child and a German couple. As the ferry made ready to leave I found myself wondering whether this had been a good idea seeing as I have the worst sea-sickness ever. I have been known to go green on a canal boat! The engines revved and the water rolled beneath us and as the banks of Lisbon’s north shore receeded I managed to convince my stomach that there was no cause for alarm. Delighted, I found myself enjoying the trip.

Whilst the windows are a little grimy, the further the ferry goes, the better the view of Lisbon’s shores. As you reach the middle of the river, your eye can stretch from Belém Tower to Alfama and the Sé. You also get a fabulous view of the Ponte 25th de Abril too. Whilst the famous bridge is another way of crossing the river, there is something wonderfully romantic about a boat – the slight smell of corrosion of  water upon metal, the oil of the engines, the rhythm of the waves…

I had no plans when I reached the other side of the river. I just wanted to take in the view and wander. Initially as we disembarked, a mass of woman selling fruit, vegetables and imitation watches beseeched us to buy. I side-tracked the throng and turned left to walk along the waterside. Hardly a few feet later, I found a seat beside the river where I could simply sit and gaze at Lisbon from a different vantage point. After pausing there for a while, I changed my mind about walking further into Cacilhas favouring a long walk beside the water instead.

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Walking back on myself, I made my way along the river side, past jetties with old fishing boats moored and run-down warehouses. I stood for some time simply drinking in the panorama, tasting the slight salt on my lips and the heat of the sun reflecting of the water. I had one of my moments that I sometimes have in Lisbon, an overwhelming feeling that I wanted to cry with the love I felt for the beautiful city that lay on the opposite shore.

Many come to Cacilhas to visit the giant Christi Rei monument that echoes the one found on the mountain overlooking Rio de Janerio in Brazil. Perhaps it is the sense of pilgrimage that hangs over this place that moves me too. If Christi Rei is the point of your trip by the way, there is a bus outside the ferry port at Cacilhas that will take you all the way to the monument.
 
Time was short however as I had made my decision to ride the ferry a couple of hours before meeting someone for coffee. Rather than explore further, I caught the ferry back, letting it rock me back into the arms of Lisbon. The vast monument and Cacilhas are mysteries for me to explore another day…

Rua Augusta

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Running from the grand entrance to Lisbon on Praça do Comércio to central Praça Rossio, Rua Augusta is the bustling main street of Lisbon. Pedestrianised, the street captures every aspect of Lisbon life from market stalls and street art to high end and high street shops. The road was immortalised in Gulliver’s travels. I watched this not too long ago and had no idea that Lisbon was featured. Much to my friend’s annoyance I could not stop the squeal of excitement I let out when I noticed Gulliver being wheeled through the magnificent archway (Arco do Rua Augusta). 

Assuming you have not been captured by the people of Lilliput, the first thing you will see upon entering through the giant archway from Praça Comércio is a variety of market stalls. Most of these sell bags, scarves and some jewellery. Cross the road ahead and you then come to a rash of stalls either side of the street selling paintings of Lisbon and Portugal. Be warned that some of the stall holders are very pushy. I just happened to glance at one of the pictures I liked and the stallholder was telling me his life story in seconds and then offering me a deal on two for the price of one in under a minute! I was amused as I had already decided I wanted to purchase a picture the day before and sales patter has absolutely no effect on me whatsoever.  Just so you know, this is the part of the street where the banks are so head here if you need an ATM (although there are plenty scattered around the city anyway).

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Cross the next street and this brings you to the cafes that have seats situated in the centre of Rua Augusta. Tables and chairs abound here for the weary traveller who’s just landed in Lisbon. Food at these tables tends to be cheap and cheerful. On the right hand side of the street is a little souvenir shop selling a wide variety of nik naks.

Next to this is ‘A Chega’ which sells all things woollen. The quality looks good and not too expensive.

Note that the next street that crosses Rua Augusta is the one with the tram lines. Turn left and walk up the hill to the tramstop if you want to catch the 28 to the Castle here.

Crossing over the tram lines and continuing up Rua Augusta you’ll see a large branch of Zara on your left. A little further along is the rather lovely “Casa Pereira da Conceição” This shop has been here since 1933. It’s one of my favourite shops in Lisbon but then I am a coffee lover and of course in Lisbon you will always find good coffee! In truth I must nod to tea as well as this traditional shop sells fine teas and coffees from all over the world. There is also gorgeous porcelain china, vintage ports, ginginha and home-made chocolates Mmmmmm :-)  The shop is still run by the same family and has another smaller outlet in Chiado. If you want to buy your loved ones a foodie gift (or yourself!) this is a nice place to look.

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Just across the next road that bi-sects Rua Augusta on the corner to your right is São Nicolau Cafeteria. Stop here for traditional Portuguese pastries such as pasteis de nata, queijinhos d’ovo, tarte de amêndoa, fatias, douradas and more.

Across the way is “Monteiros e Jorge LDA”, a high class leather and suede shop. Next up on the left is ‘Madeira House’ with typical Portuguese china (might be the place to buy your Portuguese cockerel). Beside this is the familiar H&M store and opposite are an array of other high street clothes shops.

Look left as you cross the next stree (Rua da Vitória) and you’ll see Chiado-Baixa metro.

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The heart of the street now alternates between jewellers, fashion shops and tiny tourist kiosks packed with take home goodies. Poised gracefully between these is a rather swish looking men’s clothes shop at 195- 197 Rua Augusta called Pitta. Whilst there’s little for me to buy inside, I love this shop simply for it’s fabulous carved wooden frontage. Gleaming in the sunlight this shop pitches you back to an older era when every shop was individual and owners took great pride in every aspect of their business. Beside the gorgeous wooden-fronted shop is a tiny stairway that leads to a handicraft shop.

Cross the next street and you’ll come to Gazela – a little cafe in the centre of the road. It may serve as a much needed break if you are into shoe shopping because on this part of the street you’ll be spoilt for choice. I am still always surprised at just how many shoe shops their are in Lisbon and more so because they often seem to be open later than the other shops. Beside’s being born female I’m afraid I never sucumbed to the lure of shoes but then I’m a bit of a hippy so I’d probably go bare-foot if I could.

As you cross the next street you’ll see the Elevador Santa Justa – do go for a ride.

The next point of interest is Casa Brasileira and absolutely terrific pastry shop. You can tell it’s good because the Portuguese are going in to eat. Opposite is Casa Macário which sells a huge range of Portuguese wines, sweets, honey’s and jams.

From the glorious calçadas to the traditional shops and cafes; from human statues and hustling buskers to the occassional sly hiss of “hashish” from a passing dealer. From well dressed Portuguese businessman to tired tourists, Rua Augusta is the lively centre of Lisbon. With the Tejo glittering at one end through the triumphant arch the light here falls on every colourful aspect of Portuguese life. It’s easy to rush down this street on the way to somewhere else but it deserves to be wandered and savoured and very definately tasted. Now, where next for a pasteis…

Miradouro das Portas do Sol

Whenever I visit Lisbon evenings tend to find me at Miradouro das Portas do Sol, quietly drinking a beer or a coffee and writing up my experiences of the day whilst taking in the glorious view. It’s very easy to reach, take the number 28 tram. It’s the stop after the castle.

‘Portas das Sol’ literally means ‘doorways of the sun’ and refers to sunset. It is a wonderful place to come in the early evening and watch how the setting sun changes the colours of the water and the rooftops. I think each time I have had the same feeling of ‘now I am really here’ once I take my place beside the Tejo and feel the warm river winds caress my skin.

The light here is extraordinary. The terrace is dotted with palm trees and is spacious and wide. Sitting on the seats of the cafe that probably boasts the best view in Lisbon you gaze across Alfama to the boats on the water and beyond. From here you can see the magnificent structure of São Vicente de Fora Church. I love watching people’s faces as they reach the summit of the hill from the castle and realise what they have stumbled upon. Despite the many tourists that arrive here, few seem to spend time really taking in the atmosphere: a quick snap and they are gone as they spy the steps leading deep into Alfama.

There is a statue of St. Vincent who guards over the terrace and Lisbon. He is the Patron Saint of Lisbon and in his hands he holds a boat with two ravens. Perhaps it’s why I like this place and feel protected here; I’ve always had thing about ravens. They are healing birds and powerful medicine.

Just beside the cafe is a long veranda that juts out to offer a perfect place to stand and catch your breath. As usual on my last visit, the first evening found me here. I felt curiously emotional. A lone busker played intricate guitar as I stood by the rails looking out over the water. I was blessed with a few minutes where it was just me, him and the river and I let the feeling of saudade roll over me. It is moments like these, in the most romantic of places, when it is hard to stand alone. Without a lover’s hand to grasp, I sent my heart out over the water and hoped for just a moment he knew I was thinking of him.